How To Install Porcelain tiles

The first step you have to take is to measure the area you are going to tile. Then, for best results, you need to get the old flooring up. Items you will need are as follows.


1-You will need a tile cutter.

2-Tile of choice.

3- Cement Board and Nails (these boards take up to 150 nails per board). This is used only for wood sub-flooring. If you have a cement floor you can skip this step. Some people might advise you to skip this step regardless, that it is unnecessary. Floor buckles and warp after time when this step is ignore on wood sub-flooring, so install it if applies to your situation.

4- Chalk line.

5- Multi-Purpose Thin-set (There is a wide variety of product in this category).

6- Mortar Mix (there are installations of porcelain that don’t need the use of this product).

7- Grout .

8- Large mixing buckets (one for cement, one for grout).

9- Protective Gloves (rubber is fine).

10- Notched Trowel.

11- Putty Knife.

12- Metal Cement Mixer and heavy-Duty Drill.

13- Bag of tile spacers n) One or two large sponges.

14- Sponge mop.

15- Grout Sealer (optional) .

 

Prepare area:

Step One: The first thing you need to do is remove all of the existing baseboards.

Step Two: Evaluate the condition of the existing floor and replace or make repairs as necessary.

Step Three: Install your cement boards if you are starting from a wood sub-floor.

Step Four: Whether installing cement boards or not, make sure the floor you are starting from is clean and free of moisture.

 

Installation:

1- You are now ready to begin with the tile. You will start from the exact center of the room to ensure tile placement is done evenly. Measure from each wall to the middle and snap a chalk line. Where your lines intersect will be your starting point. Doing the chalk line from all four walls will aid you later as you work in quadrant sections to place your tile.

2- Lay a row or two of loose tiles down from the center to the wall. This will serve two purposes; one, to ensure your measurement is even and the last cut of tile will not be too narrow, and two, to ensure you are putting the pattern down as you would really like it to be because once you start cementing it will be too late to make changes.

3- Once you have completed the above steps, you are ready to start putting down the cement. Be very careful to read all of the instructions from the manufacturer of the cement that you are using. Generally you will use a notched trowel to put the cement down unless the instructions state otherwise. Cover about ¼ of the floor with the cement and allow drying until it reaches a tacky, not sticky consistency. You can easily test consistency with your thumb or the flat part of your index finger. The process usually takes about 15 minutes, but if it is still sticky, you will need to wait a bit longer.

4- Once the cement consistency is correct you will begin to lay your tiles. Start from the center chalk line, being very careful to ensure the starting piece is perfectly centered and straight. Lay your tiles down one by one, careful to ensure that you have a tile spacer in place after each one. Do not slide them, place them firmly, directly down, and flat where you want them to be. Work from the middle to the wall for each section. When you reach the last row of tiles it will be necessary to make a pattern (using paper or marking on an existing tile) to use for cutting tiles that will not fit. When coming across pipes, heater vents, etc. it will also be necessary to make a cutting pattern. Once this quarter of floor is placed, remove your spacers so they do not adhere to the cement. Repeat these instructions, one quarter at a time for the rest of the floor. Allow to dry overnight to allow the adhesive to set.

5- After your adhesive is set it is time to grout. Place the grout into the joints of the tile by putting it on your putty knife, working in a diagonal motion. As you go along remove the excess grout with a damp sponge. Work in quarters as you did above. The tile will have a hazy appearance from the grout but you need to remember that it is not yet a finished project. Be certain to wipe up haze as best you can with your damp sponge as you go and then with a damp sponge mop. It takes about a week for the floor to cure. Some people recommend waiting the entire week before mopping and some people use a damp sponge mop two or three times a day for a week during the curing process. I choose the latter, but again, be sure you are following manufacturer directions to the letter. If it says not to do this step, then skip it. After a week has passed you may choose to seal your grout so that dirt and moisture are repelled. You can follow the manufacturer's simple instructions to get it done. Replace your base boards and you have now laid your own porcelain tile floor.

6- Important points to remember are that your floor will most likely be raised to a bit of a higher level than you are used to (especially if you did not have tiles previously on the same floor), so be sure to plan accordingly. Also, make sure you are wearing your protective gloves at all times throughout the tile laying process.  

 

Specs: (Important- tone or caliber variations may occur.)

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